by Frank Schroth

ester is coming.

A new restaurant will be making its home in Lower Mills this coming spring if all goes as planned. It will be replacing The Ledge with a new name, new owners, new chef and new menu. One element will stay the same as the baton is passed — a strong community spirit.

Few businesses that generate as much public excitement as the advent of a new restaurant. There is always a sense of anticipation and ester (no that is not a typo – more on that in a bit) is no exception. The restaurant is in Milton’s back yard and Milton residents Cheryl and George Tougias are among the investment group. Naturally, we wanted to learn more.

The Ledge is owned by the Feeney brothers and, though they had not been actively seeking to sell, they were open to the idea when approached by Eleanor Arpino who felt the full potential of the spot was not being realized. The Feeneys, who own and manage an excavation company, know Arpino, who is grounded in the food business. One reason Arpino likes the location is that she lives in the neighborhood and that is one of the reasons the Feeneys like her as a buyer. The Feeneys have a history of community engagement and having a Dorchester owner mattered to them.

Ms. Arpino’s life has been one of all food all the time. She took her first waitress job at the age of fifteen and didn’t look back. But food was not only her work life, it was her home life. Arpino’s family immigrated to the US before she was born and brought their knowledge and traditions with them. Growing up in Newton, Arpino’s mother had a sizable garden and in late summer all were engaged in the harvesting and preserving of the bounty. Arpino said nothing ever went to waste ,and equally important, she learned “that good food does not need to be expensive.” Locally sourced food will be used as much as possible and the garden that currently sits on the roof of the restaurant will remain.

In addition to the Tougiases and Ms. Arpino, the investors are Anita Lauricella of Jamaica Plain and Ms. Arpino’s husband Charlie Schoonover. They have all known each other for some time; Arpino being the connecting link. Their confidence is rooted in her along with a shared commitment to establishing a restaurant that continues to be an energizing community asset. Well developed relationships are at the heart of the enterprise. The chef will be Esteban Gallego, who came from Davio’s where Ms. Arpino was a general manager. In a professional sense she says, “He grew up with me.” She said Gallego is a “well-rounded” chef with expertise in a variety of cuisines.

The goal of Arpino and her investors is to bring “good food at a good price” into a space that is “warm and welcoming” to all — including kids. “The children’s menu will not be an afterthought,” Arpino said. The goal is simple, “To make people feel good.” And Arpino wants to provide good food that makes people feel good however it suits them. She plans to offer sit down service, take out, and delivery.

And the name? It’s ester with a lower case “e”as in Dorch–ester. The restaurant sits at the end of Dorchester Avenue. Because the first part of Dorchester always seems to get attention, the name is a modest shout out to the end of the Dorchester name.

The team hopes to have ester open this coming spring.